On June 18, 2026, a party celebrating Oris’s “122nd Anniversary” was held at the “Oris Ginza Boutique” in Ginza, Tokyo. I was humbly invited to attend, so I eagerly stopped by on my way home from work.
For the record, I have owned several Oris watches over the years. Various circumstances eventually took them out of my collection, but lately I have found myself increasingly eager to own an Oris again.
To be honest, for someone who owns a frankly ridiculous number of watches, it felt strangely unnatural not to have an “ORIS” in the collection. Oris is one of the great names in practical watchmaking, and a brand I have known since I was young. In fact, it was one of the first brands I became conscious of when I began to realize that watches were becoming a genuine passion (*´ω｀*)
This is the future of ORIS!! “Artelier Complication”
I had also seen Oris at “Time United” a few days earlier, where I was reminded that the brand still makes watches with the same earnest integrity it always has.
Speaking of the watches I saw there, the new “Artelier Complication” model was particularly impressive. It was a splendid demonstration of what can happen when a young designer is given a real opportunity.
The question, of course, is how the long-time fans who have supported Oris will respond. In every era, something new must confront a “wall of history” before it can be accepted. Even so, I have a feeling that understanding will spread with time, until people naturally think, “This is what Artelier looks like.”
In fact, the moment I first saw the “Artelier Complication,” my instinctive reaction was, “This may be the future of Oris in the dress-watch field.” Many watches described as modern interpretations of classic designs gain a new kind of appeal only by sacrificing “something essential.” The new “Artelier Complication,” however, loses none of its fundamental charm. With an exquisite sense of balance, it brings Oris’s neo-classical vision to completion.
I had been waiting for another chance to become an “Oris owner.”
The “ORIS Birthday Night” held to celebrate the brand’s 122nd anniversary was an opportunity not only to see the “Artelier Complication” but also to view new releases, classic models, and many other timepieces that symbolize the future of ORIS.
Among them, the one that really left an impression on me was this limited-edition new model, the “Artelier Hölstein Edition 2026.” I suppose you could call it an “aesthetic” discovered at the very end of calculated restraint.The abstract beauty of the mirror-polished small-seconds area resonates with the almost excessively simple warm-gray dial… It is a highly sophisticated design that seems to reveal an endless succession of nuances the longer you look.
But the truth is… I had arrived that evening with one particular watch firmly in my sights. Its image had refused to leave my mind since the moment it was released, and I had simply been waiting for the right occasion to buy it. That opportunity turned out to be the “ORIS Birthday Night” event that day (*´∀｀*)
For My Return to Oris, It Had to Be “Monochrome”
Colored dials may be enjoying their moment, but personally, I have always preferred monochrome dials.
After all, you never get tired of them, and you’re not limited by how they match your clothes, shoes, or belts. Some recent watches use deliberately eccentric colors precisely to make the watch stand apart from the rest of an outfit. But anyone who cares about the total look cannot afford to ignore the color of the dial.
That said, I have no interest whatsoever in monochrome designs that lose out to colored dials. In an age when almost any color is technically possible, choosing the simplest palette only makes sense when it produces a monochrome dial capable of outshining even the most flamboyant colors.
This must be the “Big Crown Pointer Date”!!
“If I’m returning to Oris, it will be with a Big Crown Pointer Date.” I reached that conclusion fairly early on. Not only had I owned one in the past, but I also wanted to rediscover—after a long time—the practicality and ease of use of the “Big Crown,” which strikes a balance between dress and field watches.
A pilot’s watch featuring a large crown so that pilots can adjust the time even while wearing leather gloves… That is the “Big Crown.” First introduced in 1938, it has weathered the storms of time and remains an iconic Oris watch to this day.
In fact, I would say it is by far the most recognizable model in the Oris collection. If the “Red Rotor” is the heart of Oris, then the “Big Crown” is the watch most perfectly associated with it.
The fact that it features a “pointer date” is also extremely important. After all, this mechanism—where a hand points to the date on the outer ring rather than using a standard date disc—gives the watch a “distinctive and easy-to-read character.” It’s just like pro wrestling, isn’t it?! Rather than abandoning time-honored techniques, “polishing them to perfection” elevates them into one-of-a-kind finishing moves. That gives it a fundamentally different meaning from the pointer dates used by other brands as little more than a supporting move.
It’s settled, then… All right!! I’ll go with the “Big Crown Pointer Date”!!
I bought a Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye!!
So I expected to begin by comparing the current Big Crown models… but as it turned out, there was no need.
The choice seemed to settle naturally on the “Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye.” It was my ideal watch in almost every sense—the absolute one I had been searching for in every direction, including among microbrands. I had fallen for it at first sight at Time United and thought, “Well, that settles it”… but then!? (＠_＠;)
Then, after a little time had passed, one newly arrived model shook that almost-settled decision more than I expected. That model is the limited-edition Big Crown “Lou Gehrig Limited Edition.” And this one… is just so well-crafted!!
It was an awkward predicament: two monochrome watches of such exceptional quality, appearing within such a short span of time. It felt like having my two favorite desserts, strawberry shortcake and Mont Blanc, lined up on the table and being forced to choose between them… That’s exactly how it felt (；´∀｀)
In the end, I went with “Bullseye” based on my initial inspiration, but in terms of design, I think I would have been satisfied with either choice. It’s impossible to say which one is better. If I had to pick one, it would probably be the “case size.”
The Bullseye measures 38 mm across, while the Lou Gehrig measures 40 mm. Given my build and wrist size, I could wear either one without the slightest awkwardness, but in terms of the balance between the design and the case size—which felt most convincing to me—I found the Bullseye to be the more polished of the two.Well, as far as this goes, my perspective might (quite) change as time goes on (；´∀｀)
For this purchase, then, the 38 mm “Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye” is my best buy. Since it’s such a popular model, I’ll have to wait a while for it to come back in stock… I’ll just have to be patient.
I don’t even know how to put it… I absolutely love it!!
A few days later, I received a courteous notification that the watch had arrived. I couldn’t sit still, so I rushed right over to the Oris Ginza Boutique where the watch had been delivered. It’s only two stops from my office to Ginza. The weather was unfortunately bad with a typhoon approaching, but wouldn’t you know it—on the very day my watch was delivered, my knees, which were usually swollen from water retention, didn’t even hurt!! (lol)
And so I finally came face to face with “my Bullseye”… and let me tell you, the emotion hit me in waves (*´∀｀*)
It’s been a while since I’ve looked at an Oris, but my first reaction was, “Wow, it’s so beautiful!” Then, looking at the “Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye”—which fits perfectly on my wrist—I was deeply moved, thinking, “This is what it means to craft something with such care.” That’s right!! This feeling is what “ORIS” is all about!!
Now, thank you for waiting!! Let us examine each element of the “Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye” one by one (*´∀｀*)
The “Bullseye Dial” Revives the Style of 100 Years Ago
The “bullseye dial” first appeared at Oris in the 1910s, when it was used on pocket watches. Although it returned several times over the decades, Oris’s bullseye dial vanished from the spotlight after its last appearance in 1998—despite being a “killer dial design” that was guaranteed to sell whenever it was released.
By the way, “bullseye” literally means “the eye of a bull,” but in practice, it refers to the very center of a target used in shooting or darts. Come to think of it, the center of a dartboard is called the “bull,” isn’t it?
In terms of dial design, this is a type of “sector dial” that divides the information to make it easier to read. The indices (Arabic numerals) and other small details, which can sometimes appear scattered, are divided into black and white sections, making them easier to process visually.
In truth, none of that brochure-like “explanation of the hot spring’s therapeutic benefits” really matters. The bullseye dial is simply beautiful.The surface finish is superb, with uniform quality down to every single tiny numeral… You can see how the rounded luster of the lacquered dial makes the outlines of all the hands stand out. Above all, it’s so stylish!!
The “Oris Bullseye,“ with a history spanning over 100 years. I never get tired of looking at it, no matter how long I gaze at it.
There’s Something Wonderful About Cobra Hands!!
I love it, I love it~♫ … So, as I thought, the “Cobra Hands” are the best. The concept of maximizing luminescence without compromising the beauty of the design in the slightest is a perfect fit for the “Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye.” The finish is flawless, too. I just can’t get enough of this!!
Some Big Crown models use pencil hands that narrow toward the base, the “Big Crown” that shines most brightly in my memory is, without a doubt, the cobra-hand version. I think that anachronistic, old-fashioned charm—which lends a sense of warmth to the dial—is precisely what makes the Cobra-hand Big Crown so appealing.
The “Visual Tension” Created by the Pointer Date
I’m not exactly a die-hard “no-date” advocate, but I agree 100% with what the no-date advocates say. That’s because there are simply too many otherwise appealing models whose appearance has been spoiled by a date window.
Brand manufacturers are surely well aware of this, but they still mass-produce watches with date displays because they simply wouldn’t sell otherwise. That’s how deeply wristwatches are still perceived as “practical items.”
The other day, I had to fill out a receipt while I was out, and when I tried to check the date on my watch, I realized it was a “no-date” model. I immediately pulled out my smartphone to double-check, but for people who consider this kind of frantic action a “waste,” having the date displayed on the watch itself might be an “essential feature.”
The pointer date that Oris has continued to use is, admittedly, an old-fashioned mechanism. For anyone accustomed to the instant numerical readout of a conventional date window, the extra analog step of finding the number indicated by a hand may feel mildly inconvenient.
However, the “Pointer Date” model has the “advantage” of eliminating the “date window”—which disrupts the balance of the dial design—allowing you to fully appreciate the inherent beauty of the dial design.
One look at the dial, its visual tension heightened by the addition of another central hand, makes it clear that the “Pointer Date” is a date display that doesn’t disrupt the dial’s design.
Why Oris Chose the 38 mm Big Crown Case for the Bullseye
While the “Big Crown” line primarily features 40mm-wide cases, the “Bullseye” model I purchased has a 38mm-wide case. Personally, whether it’s 40mm or 38mm, there isn’t much difference on my wrist.
As I mentioned earlier, the relationship between dial design and case size matters greatly to me. What thrilled me here was Oris’s decision to use the slightly smaller 38 mm case as the foundation for the Bullseye design. In other words, this dial needed a compact, tightly proportioned body.
Some watches simply create large and small versions by scaling the dial up or down, but from a design standpoint, that is a poor move that introduces unnatural proportions. Even if you work out to build muscle, your hands and feet don’t get any bigger, right?
Design is nothing more than the process of finding the optimal balance within the relative relationships between various elements. In considering the combination that would best showcase a beautiful dial, perhaps that’s why the Bullseye chose a “38mm” case rather than a “40mm” one.
Case Finishing That Exceeds the Price Point
Holding an Oris in my hands for the first time in a while, I was once again impressed by what an earnest, conscientious brand it is. When it comes to the case, it’s all about the “finish.” The mirror-polished case sides are exceptionally smooth, while the brushed surfaces—where a brand’s true level often becomes obvious—are precise and beautifully executed.
At first glance, the design may not seem to have any particularly distinctive features, but its style is simply exquisite. The “lug length” is the single most important factor in determining a watch’s appeal, and this model strikes a perfect balance—neither too long nor too short. A watch like this isn’t swayed by passing trends.
While watches priced at 500,000 yen or less usually have at least one flaw, the “Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye” is truly beyond reproach considering its price range. I believe this case will continue to be a cornerstone of the Big Crown brand for years to come.
“5 atm Water Resistance”—I Wished It Went Just a Little Further
It was drizzling the day I picked up the “Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye” at the Oris Ginza Boutique.
The water-resistance rating of this watch is “5 atm.“
Normally, a water-resistance rating like this would stop me from wearing a watch home, even on the day I bought it. But I ended up wearing it home anyway (lol). I just couldn’t resist. I wanted to wear this ridiculously handsome “Bullseye” and head straight to a ramen shop in Nishi-Shinjuku…
Heavy rain was forecast for the next day as a sign that a typhoon was approaching the Kanto region. Spending a weekday with a newly purchased watch on the wrist is pure happiness, and honestly, I’d love to wear my “Bullseye.” That said, its “5 atm” water resistance rating is just a bit too low to make me feel comfortable doing so. Thinking about the long term, I had no choice but to give up on the idea.
Come to think of it, given Oris’s personality (?), the “5 atm” rating might actually be a bit of an understatement. After all, it does have a screw-down crown, doesn’t it? (；´∀｀)
This may be a belated suggestion regarding the “Big Crown”—a historic timepiece that Oris has carefully crafted over the years—but I would like to see it achieve 10 atm water resistance if possible. Even if there’s no significant difference in actual performance, users simply feel more at ease when it’s explicitly stated.
The Coin-Edge Bezel: Old-Fashioned, Yet Gently Expressive
“Cobra Hands,” “Pointer Date”… The “Coin-Edge Bezel” rounds out this trio of “old-school designs”—in the best possible sense.
The “coin-edge bezel” is the quintessential example of a design that evokes a particular era, and when combined with other elements that share this same aesthetic direction, its stylistic impact is significantly enhanced. After all, this kind of design only truly comes into its own when it’s carried through consistently.
While the “Big Crown” is also available in a model with a smooth bezel, I highly recommend comparing the two in person. If you find yourself drawn to the “vintage yet soft look” of the “coin-edge bezel,” it might be because your cuff is craving a touch of “gentleness” (*´ω｀*)
The Crown That Stopped Me in My Tracks
I reached for the crown almost unconsciously when my hand paused for a moment. It was because the “crown” itself looked so cool. It caught me off guard—it’s been a while since I’ve been so captivated by a crown.
Since it’s called the “Big Crown,” the crown is indeed on the larger side, but it’s not a part that stands out as a design feature. It doesn’t even have a crown guard, after all.
Even so, this crown has an indescribable charm. Because it’s large, it’s also very comfortable to use.
A “domed sapphire crystal” that adds a touch of allure to an already captivating dial
What made me involuntarily murmur, “Ah, so that’s how they’ve done it…” was the domed sapphire crystal. The outline of the case flows directly into the soft silhouette of the crystal, giving the watch a powerful sense of completeness as an individual object. This is precisely the sort of detail that contributes to an owner’s satisfaction, and it made me think, “That is so typically Oris.”
And the fact that it features an “inner anti-reflective coating.” Of course, in terms of clarity of the dial, a “double-sided anti-reflective coating” is ideal, but the advantage of applying the coating only to the inner surface—which means you can avoid the unfortunate situation of “outer coating peeling”—is by no means insignificant.
The drawback is that some reflection remains, but when it comes to this “Big Crown,” I feel like even that aspect has been turned into a “vintage effect.” It also has a slightly acrylic-like look to it. I absolutely love it (*´艸｀*)
Simple Black Calf Strap
It comes with a very simple “black calfskin strap.” A folding clasp would have been ideal, but this one uses a pin buckle. There are watches that look better with a pin buckle, and now that you mention it, a classic pin buckle might actually suit the “Bullseye” better.
True to its roots as a pilot’s watch—the “Big Crown”—the included strap has a rugged, field-style feel. It’s not bad at all. It’s the kind of strap that develops fine cracks on the surface over time, giving it an increasingly rugged look (*´ω｀*)
However, it’s definitely “stiff” at first (sweat). If you force it through the keepers, one of them may snap. I recommend handling it with care when you first start using it.
The movement is the “Caliber 754-1”
At the heart of the “Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye” is the “Caliber 754-1,” which features a red rotor. According to information reportedly released by the Oris Help Center, it is based on the Sellita “SW200-1.”
Since Sellita also offers a “SW221-1” model with a pointer date, there has been a lot of speculation circulating about Oris’s “pointer date mechanism.”If the base movement is the “SW200-1,” which features a standard date display function, that would mean Oris added a proprietary module… but the truth remains unclear.
The beat rate is “28,800 vibrations per hour,” and the power reserve is “41 hours.” It features bidirectional winding and an “Incabloc” shock protection system.
Oris has a wonderful in-house movement called the “Caliber 400,” but that naturally drives up the price. Equipping its lower-priced models with the Sellita-based “Caliber 754-1” makes strategic sense as a way to broaden Oris’s customer base.
The Price: ¥368,500
When it comes to price, the first thing that tends to come under fire is the “movement.” As I mentioned earlier, this watch is equipped with the “Caliber 754-1,” which is based on the Sellita “SW200-1.”If you’re a watch enthusiast with about 10 years of experience, hearing “SW200” may still make your left eyebrow twitch. It’s true that the early SW200 models were quite the problem children (sweat).
However, the current SW200 is truly a model student. Especially lately, with the rising market price of Sellita watches, new enthusiasts have been welcoming it with reactions like, “SW200?? Awesome!!” So, perhaps it’s already outdated to talk about how “expensive” it is just because it’s a Sellita.
Turning, then, to the external elements—the case, dial, hands, crystal, strap, and overall execution—I think the finished watch is remarkably generous for the price. Honestly, there’s nothing to criticize. Far more noticeable than any flaw that might provoke the complaint, “I paid 368,500 yen for this?!”—is the positive reaction: “All this for ¥368,500? That’s impressive!”
Personally, I think this “368,500 yen” is a “reasonable price.” My main reason for this is the fact that “it seems like something I’ll be able to use for a long time,” which I’ll explain in more detail in the next paragraph. After all, the longer I use it, the lower the “daily cost” becomes (*´∀｀*)
| Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye Specifications | |
|---|---|
| Case / Crystal | Stainless steel case, sapphire crystal, double-domed, anti-reflective coating on the inner surface, stainless steel, screw-down crown, see-through mineral glass |
| Size | 38.00 MM |
| Water resistance | 5 bar |
| Lug Width | 19 MM |
| Movement Features | Central hour and minute hands, central pointer-date hand, quick-set date, fine time adjustment, and stop-seconds |
| Power Reserve | 41 hours |
| Caliber | 754-1 |
| Dimensions | 25.60 mm in diameter, 11 1/2 lignes |
| Winding | Automatic |
| Vibration | 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) |
| Dial | Multicolor |
| Strap | Leather |
About the Oris Warranty Period
Oris warranty coverage varies according to the movement, but by registering with “MyOris,” it can be extended to “3 years,” “5 years,” or up to “10 years.“
The standard warranty period for this watch is “2 years,“ but you can extend it to “3 years” by registering with MyOris. And it’s free! (*´∀｀*)
Reflecting on Memories of Oris
Let me take you back to the distant days when I first became conscious of luxury watches.
Back then, it wasn’t like it is today, where you can “choose from an endless array” of unique watches from various brands. On the other hand, even a Rolex was still within realistic reach, and Omega—which was even more popular among office workers than Rolex—was simply cheap.
A wristwatch is, after all, a practical item. Sure, the price tag required the kind of resolve it takes to jump off the stage at Kiyomizu Temple, but even so, it was there as a practical “tool for workers.”
After all, it was an era when wristwatches sold at a rate that was incomparable to today. While there were some working adults who didn’t wear watches, given the social climate when hard work was widely expected to bring higher pay, every young office worker had a concrete dream like, “I’m going to buy a Speedmaster with my next bonus!!”Showing off your watch at drinking parties was a classic thing to do back then, too (*´ω｀*)
And so, with ¥300,000 or ¥400,000 clutched in hand, people charged into watch departments where luxury watches stood lined up as realistic candidates. I apologize for my somewhat vague memory, but “Oris” was among them as well. That is why, in my distant memory, Rolex and Omega… and then Oris… form one hazy constellation.
Depending on the generation, quite a few people bought an Oris as their first mechanical watch. After all, that first watch becomes a “special, unforgettable piece.” So, I believe that choosing a “time-honored brand with a commitment to quality” like Oris means you carefully considered your options at that time and reached the conclusion—in your own way—“This is the one I’ll use for a long time!”
Perhaps the moment I chose an Oris as my first watch, I had a hunch that “this is going to be a watch I’ll keep for the rest of my life.”
Oris continues to create “watches that are close to people’s hearts.”
By ordinary standards, the number of watches I have bought may look slightly mad; by collector standards, perhaps merely respectable. I’ve made some fatal mistakes when buying watches, and there are a few I bought on somewhat vague grounds that I later regretted. What these “watches I couldn’t get along with” ultimately have in common is that my own “changing perspective” shifted to a greater extent than I had anticipated.
“I bought it because I thought it looked cool, but after a year, I didn’t think so anymore”… That change in feeling stems from the buyer’s own growth. In other words, for better or worse, the eye has become more discerning.
While I think that’s something to be happy about in itself, it can also be a bit of a hassle because you might start to dislike music you used to love, or begin to notice your partner’s flaws. Since the human mind continues to grow (and mature) even after physical growth has stopped, these kinds of troublesome situations will follow you right up until the end of your life.
Even among these, there are some things with which our relationship remains unchanged. Whether it’s a person or an object, if it has a strong ability to stay in step with us, our perception of it will evolve in tandem with our personal growth. We can move on to the “next stage of our relationship” so naturally that we don’t even realize it’s happening.
And ORIS is one of the finest examples of a brand that creates watches capable of staying with us for a lifetime.
Finally… The Black-and-White Companion I Hope to Grow Old With: the “Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye”
And this time, the “Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye (01 754 7779 4061-07 5 19 25)” I acquired was a watch that stood out even among Oris watches for its exceptional ability to stay by my side. No matter how much my outlook or fashion sense changes, or even if my life itself undergoes a major transformation, this Bullseye will simply adapt, remain close, and continue beside me (*´ω｀*)
Oris may not be the kind of brand that constantly captures “the moment” with cutting-edge designs, but in its place, it naturally embodies the “timelessness” and “universality” that all luxury watches should inherently possess. In fact, even among the top-tier brands, only a handful are capable of creating watches that retain their distinctive character for such an extended period. And that, precisely, is the “true value of the Oris brand.”
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