Wolbrook Skindiver & WT PAN4 Timer Review : A True Tool Watch Heritage

　I’ve ended up with yet another wristwatch. I know I’ve told myself I can’t get any more, but when I see a watch that really catches my eye, I just can’t resist…

　I guess that’s it. It’s probably something like “I-Want-a-Wristwatch Syndrome”—an incurable condition. Well, I guess there’s nothing I can do about it, then~ (；´Д｀)

The reason I can’t resist is that “the wristwatch I want is right there.”

　I have two 32-bottle storage cases from CASECLUB, four 5-bottle storage cases from CELIEU, and five unbranded 10-bottle storage cases I bought from a certain ultra-cheap e-commerce site. The reality is that they’re all completely full. I gave up on that pointless counting game a long time ago.After all, knowing the total is “meaningless.”

　What’s more, there are even watches under the bed that didn’t fit in there. Even if I exclude the ones that have stopped working or cheap Casio watches that cost a few thousand yen, there’s still an extraordinary number of watches right in front of me.

　To be honest, just thinking about all those watches I’m not using (or can’t use) makes my heart ache. In fact, I’ve even given in to the pressure and “sold off dozens of them all at once,” but the empty spaces in my storage case—which I created through a tearful process—get filled up again all too easily (；´∀｀)

　Of course, as soon as I sell one, I make a “vow not to buy any more.” Something like, “I won’t buy a wristwatch for at least six months!!” However, the problem is that my lifestyle—running a site like this in the first place—is the root of the problem. That’s because I can’t block out information about wristwatches.

　Even so, I did try to keep my role as the owner of the “Wristwatch Tearoom” separate from my personal self, and I made an effort to keep my curiosity and material desires in separate compartments. But as you all know, the watches I want to recommend and share with you are, quite simply, “the watches I want for myself” (sweat).

　So, the real reason is simply that “there’s a wristwatch I want right there.” It might sound like an excuse, but… it’s the truth (；´∀｀)

A Look at “Wolbrook,” Now Available in Japan for the First Time

　One day in April. Having received the directive, “Please get up early tomorrow and come as soon as the store opens!!”—and fully aware that this was tantamount to “charging into a minefield”—I nevertheless made my way to “H°M’S” WatchStore (Omotesando).”

　There, we found the French brand “Elgé,” which had just launched in Japan. Also present was “Wolbrook,” which was making its debut in Japan as well.

　At that point, I was actually eyeing the “Elju” model. It was priced at around “200,000 yen.”

　It’s a little pricey for me, but since it’s been a while since I bought a watch, it’s okay, right?! Or so I tell myself—conveniently forgetting that just a few weeks ago I bought a watch that cost nearly 300,000 yen. By the way, I should mention that another factor that really boosted my spirits was that, starting that day, we entered the “Enchanting Points Bonus Period,” which ran throughout Golden Week.

　At that time, I happened to come across “Wolbrook” while browsing through Elju’s collection. I’d known of its existence for quite some time, and I’d even seen a “Wolbrook” in a collector’s private collection before, but naturally, this was the first time I’d seen one that was actually “available for purchase.”

　What surprised me was the “price.“

　“Around 100,000 yen”… When I checked the price tag, I couldn’t help but ask, “Huh!? Is this really okay?!” (lol)

　Lately, I’ve been thinking more and more about the prices of watches. There are some watches that make me think, “What?! This costs 2 million yen??” while others make me wonder, “You can buy this for just 100,000 yen??”

　In fact, there are more and more watches these days where it’s hard to tell just by looking at them whether they’re “expensive” or “cheap.” “Wolbrook,” for example, is a prime example of this, judging by the quality of the watch alone. To think you can actually buy one of these for 100,000 yen… (stares off into the distance)

　I see… So that means!! With the money I’d spend on a 200,000-yen Elge, I could buy two bottles of Wolbrook!! (*´∀｀*)

　He’s going on and on about how he “got a great deal!!,“ but his whole way of thinking is wrong to begin with. If it’s just one, wouldn’t it cost “half price” anyway?! (sweat)

Getting Up Early Is “Worth (or a Waste of) Two Wristwatches”

　Mom… You used to say that all the time: “The early bird catches the worm.” But Mom… now that I’m (fully) grown up, I’ve learned that it really “depends on the situation” (lol).

　So, just because I happened to wake up early, I “stumbled upon” the “Wolbrook”—our first shipment—and ended up buying “two at once.” Is this a “good deal” or a “bad deal”…? Honestly, it could go either way, but this kind of “fate” is an essential part of life.Probably.

Let’s Learn About “Wolbrook”!!

　Not many people would be able to answer off the top of their heads if asked, “What kind of brand is that?” I’m in the same boat, so I’d like to take this opportunity to learn more about the “Wolbrook” brand based on official materials.

An American brand founded in 1949

　“Wolbrook” is a watch brand founded in the United States in 1949 (Showa 24).The brand’s first advertisement stated, “Robust construction and unwavering accuracy—that is precisely why a Wolbrook wristwatch becomes a ‘lifelong companion’ for its owner.”In short, Wolbrook’s history began with the selling point that “you can enjoy a high level of practicality over the long term.”

　The “Ref. 358W2825” tool watch, introduced in 1949, is said to have featured advanced shock resistance and water resistance. Although the details remain unconfirmed, there are reports that it was already equipped with an original 17-jewel movement at that time.

　In 1954, they introduced a further-evolved anti-shock system and claimed that “the balance with hairspring and mainspring will never be damaged.” That was quite a bold claim (lol).

　In 1955, “DOUGLAS,” a sister brand of Wolbrook, was launched. This strengthened the company’s lineup of tool watches designed for professionals. They’re expanding their product line quickly!!

Moving Production Operations to France

　Following World War II, when a global boom in marine sports took hold, the French watch industry made significant strides in areas such as dive watches. The expertise cultivated during this era would later serve to greatly enhance the French watch industry’s level of specialization.

　In line with this trend, “Wolbrook” and its sister brand “DOUGLAS” relocated their manufacturing operations to France. By incorporating French technology, they began exploring the next evolution of the tool watch.

　In 1959, “Douglas” introduced a roulette-style date disc and a Cyclops lens, which greatly improved legibility. From then on, the brand continued to actively incorporate the features demanded by professionals.

Skindiver (skin diver) announcement

　In the early 1960s, there was an announcement about the “Skindiver.” It featured a robust construction and high water resistance. With hands and hour markers generously coated in luminescent paint for excellent legibility, it became known as a “true tool watch”—so much so that it was chosen by NASA engineers and test pilots. It’s a true powerhouse!!

　The “Douglas Skindiver Worldtimer,” a favorite of legendary test pilot and astronaut Neil Armstrong, is truly a product of that era (*´∀｀*)

　In 1967, there was an announcement regarding the “Ref. 684A” chronograph, which was equipped with a Swiss-made movement. This marked the moment when “Wolbrook”—which had been gaining recognition as a tool watch brand—took a new step forward as a manufacturer of more sophisticated watches.

“The Quartz Crisis” Sends It into a Long Slumber

　And then… the “Quartz Crisis”—a dark period for mechanical watch brands—struck. “Wolbrook” and “Douglas,” which had been steadily making progress as mechanical watch brands, were no exception; they entered a “hiatus” with no end in sight.

　Fifty years later, in 2019.The gears of “Wolbrook” and “Douglas”—once hailed as “Incredible”—began turning once again with the support of the watch industry. This is the “Wolbrook” that is right before my eyes right now—the one you can actually purchase (*´ω｀*)

Introducing Wolbrook’s “Main Lineup” Following Its Relaunch

　Since its revival in 2019, “Wolbrook” has been expanding its lineup at a pace that rivals its heyday. Here, we’ll introduce a few of its most distinctive models.

Skindiver Automatic Watch – Vintage Lum & Black Dial

Skindiver Automatic Watch – Sky Blue

Outrider Automatic Watch – Blue

Skindiver Decompression Automatic Watch – MN90

JetFlyer Automatic Chronograph

　There are plenty of other models I’d like to show you, but… I’m sure you get the picture by now!! In short, Mr. Wolbrook is the kind of guy who just keeps churning out “cool watches.”

　Well then, let’s finally move on to the “detailed review” of the model I managed to get my hands on. By the way, I’m really going all out this time and will be reviewing “two models at once.” Please don’t miss it!! (*´ω｀*)

My first Wolbrook “Skindiver WT Automatic Pan 4 Timer”

　The first one I decided to buy was the “weird tool watch”—the incredibly colorful “Pan4Timer Automatic”—which is so unusual that it’s hard to even tell the time at a glance without some explanation. My collection has grown. Yet another obscure, weird watch has made its appearance!! (lol)

Features of the “Skindiver WT Automatic Pan4Timer,” which tracks four time zones

　What really catches your eye are the “four triangles,” right? The design, reminiscent of CORUM’s “International Signal Flag Hour Markers,” is incredibly eye-catching. And on top of that, they’re inside the dial and spin around… To be honest, it’s almost too flashy (lol).

　Of course, the design of the parts is based on proper functionality. In short, these “four triangles” serve as the so-called “hour hand,” and you set and check the local time by aligning them with the “colorful bezel.” You set the triangle that matches the background color of the bezel where the city name is written, “treating it as the hour hand.”

　These four triangles are used to identify four consecutive, adjacent time zones within a single region. Rather than displaying numerous time zones like a typical worldtimer, it could be described as a “worldtimer designed for intuitive usability” that focuses solely on the information that is realistically necessary.

　You could say this is a sophisticated design optimized to show the times within the actual range of movement. I hope you can see that the unconventional appearance of the “Pan4Timer Automatic” is actually the “result of a clear intention” born from careful calculation (*´∀｀*)

An “excessively flashy bezel” is a bold fusion of function and design.

　Along with the “four triangular hour hands,” it’s this “bezel” that really catches the eye. The flashy design, with its four distinct colors, looks almost like a toy, but once you understand how it works and take another look, you’ll be captivated by its “functionality”—which is quite different from what you saw at first glance.

　Even if you never actually have the chance to use it, understanding its functions and purposes shines a spotlight on its “functional beauty itself” as a “design that enables high performance”… Just like a chronograph.

　To properly evaluate “Pan4Timer Automatic,” it is essential to “understand its features.”

“Dial”—It’s Fun to Think About

　You might not notice this either if you’re too distracted by its “flashiness.” In fact, the finishing is very good, and the dial is high-quality.

　I believe this dial is the result of eliminating unnecessary elements while still pursuing the “cool factor” that is unique to a tool watch. It may be a prime example of how the pursuit of functionality directly led to a distinctive style.

　Even the “hands”—with their simple shapes, apart from the hour hand—are imbued with “more than just the function of hands” in this “Pan4Timer Automatic.” I can’t help but feel that the presence of these ordinary hands strikes a balance between “the watch” and “its non-timekeeping functions,” barely keeping it within the definition of a watch. That, I suppose, is the result: “the beauty of a watch.”

　Is it “a watch as part of a function,” or “a function attached to a watch”…? It’s a “mysterious dial” with such a philosophical look that it makes you want to delve into the very essence of its raison d’être (*´∀｀*)

Now that’s rare!! Features the Citizen Miyota “Cal. 8315”

　Since it has a solid caseback, you can’t see anything inside… but it actually houses a bit of a “rarity.” This is my first watch equipped with Miyota’s “Cal. 8315.”With a frequency of 21,600 bph (3 Hz), it’s an automatic movement with manual-winding capability, and its approximately 60-hour power reserve is the longest among Miyota movements. Of course, it features hacking seconds. Some say it’s the “successor to the 821A.”

　The movement is 5.67 millimeters thick. It features the ParaShock shock-absorption system.

　The accuracy is “-20 to +40 seconds per day.”Compared to the Cal. 9015, which runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour, this certainly feels like a “typical” Japanese-made ébauche, but it’s not the kind of movement that will cause minor frustrations during everyday use. It offers an excellent balance of cost and performance… I can’t help but be impressed by Miyota’s recent strides.

“Case Design” with Excellent Water Resistance and Shock Resistance

　The “Pan4Timer Automatic” looks like it’s saying, “Who cares about water resistance?!” but it actually features a screw-down crown and, believe it or not, is “water-resistant to 150 meters.” Is this an Aqua Terra or something?! (lol)

　As expected of “Wolbrook,” a long-established tool watch brand. Even after its revival, its true spirit seems to be alive and well.

　The 40-millimeter-wide monoblock case, crafted from 316L stainless steel, features Wolbrook’s proprietary “shock resistance reinforced structure” inside. It is called the “HexapleX Architecture.”

　To put it simply, while movements are typically secured inside the case using spacers or similar components, “HexapleX” features “3D rubber shock absorbers (rubber cushioning)” arranged around the movement holder.In other words, it “holds the movement in a way that makes it seem to float.” It’s a concept similar to automotive suspension.

　While it isn’t a third-party standard like the ISO shock resistance standard—and is, after all, a mechanism designed according to the brand’s own criteria—it is perhaps precisely this attention to detail that defines a tool watch, and what makes it a “Wolbrook.”

　By the way, the crystal is a “box-shaped sapphire crystal.”

　The price of the “Skin Diver WT Pan 4 Timer” is 100,100 yen, including tax. With all this attention to detail, at this price… I can only say it’s a steal (*´∀｀*)

　Now, I’d like to move on to reviewing the “second watch” I purchased, but since the information regarding the case and movement is the same as that for the “Pan 4 Timer,” I’ll skip over those details.

My second Wolbrook “Skindiver Automatic – Two-Tone Green”

　Hehe… I mean, seriously, this is just the best, isn’t it? It’s a watch that’s absolutely packed with all the things I love.

　It’s got a sunray dial, right?? An aluminum bezel, right?? And raised Arabic hour markers, right??… The 40-millimeter case is a bit larger than ideal, but that makes the dial seem even more expansive, so it feels like a great value. At least on my wrist—which is nearly 17 centimeters in circumference—it doesn’t feel too big at all.

　Aside from the dial design, the case and movement share the same specifications as the “Pan4Timer Automatic.” With that in mind, I’ll be focusing this review on the design—which, despite sharing the same case, “gives a different impression.”

Blue or green… The dilemma of “choosing a dial” runs deep.

　This is a very elegant “Green Dial” from Sunray. The “Skindiver Automatic – Two-Tone” collection also included a blue dial option, but after agonizing over it for nearly 10 minutes, I chose the “subtle green.”

　If I were choosing a color more suited for everyday wear, I think I would have gone with the “blue dial” without hesitation. But this time, I deliberately chose the “green dial,” which adds a subtle twist to the rose gold accents. To be honest, the combination of blue and rose gold was just a little too stylish for an old guy like me (lol).

　With its bottle-shaped design, you can enjoy the subtle gradation of the sunray colors as they fade toward the edges.

The “hands” of the Skin Diver Automatic Two-Tone, which change the dial’s appearance with a gentle roll

　The hour hand features a “pencil” design that tapers at the base, while the minute hand is a bold, eye-catching “arrow” style, and the second hand is a “lollipop” style. This is a reissue of a design that was already fully developed in the 1960s.

　When I tried it on, I noticed that the movement of the minute hand—which stands out the most among these features—significantly changes the watch’s appearance. After all, “a change in appearance means you’re less likely to get bored with it.” The combination of rose gold and the green dial also creates an “exquisitely sophisticated” vibe. Considering the price, the finishing touches are excellent.

“Bezel”—We’re Looking Forward to Its Future Growth

　Aluminum bezel!! May you last forever!! (lol)

　Anyway, I just really like the “aluminum bezel inserts” on the Divers. With ceramic inserts, even if they get scratched, they just “become cloudy,” right?? Plus, they’ll crack if they take a hard enough hit.

　In that regard, aluminum inserts have a certain charm—they “age beautifully with scratches.”Ceramic is for those who want to keep their watch looking pristine forever, while aluminum is fun because it develops patina over time. That’s why the bezel on the “Skin Diver Automatic Two-Tone” is the kind that “will take on its final character depending on how you use it from here on out.”

　Whoa!? I just realized!! Isn’t this a “Count-Down bezel”?! It’s actually pretty rare. Some people even say that “the Count-Down bezel is easier to use” for everyday wear in the city. It’s gone up a notch in my estimation (*´∀｀*)

“Rose Gold” is making a huge fashion statement!!

　As for my personal preference, when it comes to gold, I definitely prefer “yellow gold.” For better or worse, it gives me that “Showa-era old-timer” vibe (laughs).

　Even someone like me, with my “old-guy” tastes, couldn’t resist the “Rose Gold” version of the “Skin Diver Automatic Two-Tone.” As soon as I saw it in person, I instantly threw in the towel—there’s no doubt about it, this watch is simply perfect in rose gold.

　The bezel ring, hands, and crown… The rose gold, tastefully incorporated at key points, masterfully shifts this watch’s character from a “serious tool” to a “subtly stylish tool.”The “rose gold bracelet,” which wraps around the wrist to perfectly complement that impression, is also tastefully crafted to flatter any skin tone.

　The price of the “Skin Diver Automatic Two-Tone” is 95,700 yen, including tax. Under 100,000 yen… That’s a bargain!!

“Bracelets” that can be used interchangeably

　Since this is a shared design, I’ll summarize “The Story of the Bracelet” here.

　As you’ll see at a glance from the photo, this is a “cool and beautifully designed bracelet” that instantly lifts your spirits the moment you slip it onto your wrist. Let’s start with the “5-strand bracelet.“

A “7-link bracelet” that’s a cross between the Rice and Jubilee Watch styles

　It looks like a Rice Bracelet, yet it also resembles a Jubilee Watch… For the sake of simplicity, I’ll refer to it here as the “Rice Bracelet,” but honestly, this… It does an incredibly effective job of accentuating the watch’s silhouette.

　It features a unique design where kamaboko-shaped links sandwich abacus-shaped links. And it’s beautiful, too. While the monoblock-style case is highly versatile and pairs seamlessly with any strap, it might be difficult to achieve the same level of cohesion as this bracelet. For now, I plan to wear it mainly with the bracelet until I get tired of it.

　And just look at this!! This “incredible attention to detail in the end piece”!! (lol)

　I think this recessed design element is the result of designing the end piece as an extension of the bracelet. When I spotted it, I couldn’t help but gasp, and the manager at HMS Omotesando had the same reaction, saying, “That’s the spot!!” (laughs)

　To be honest, even among high-end brands, there aren’t many bracelets that show this level of attention to detail. While most bracelets lose their sense of continuity the moment they reach the end piece, this one exudes the “awe-inspiring quality that only a piece crafted with meticulous attention to detail from start to finish can possess.”

In stark contrast, the “ordinary three-strand bracelet”

　This “three-strand bracelet” isn’t bad either. It’s nothing out of the ordinary, but since there are times when you might want to wear something simple, it definitely has its own “place” in your collection. If you want to enjoy Wolbrook to the fullest, this is a bracelet you’ll want to keep in your collection.

　Both the 7-piece set and the 3-piece set feature an “interchangeable design.” If you enjoy mixing and matching, this is practically a must-have feature (*´∀｀)

There is “still room for improvement” in the bracelet’s texture and the buckle.

　As someone who actually bought this, I have to be honest here. Visually, it’s a really lovely “bracelet” with great style, but there’s still room for improvement when it comes to the finer details of the finishing process.

　This is just a vague feeling, but… when I put it on, my skin feels a little “tingly.” The accuracy of the connections between the links is superb—on par with high-end models—and it forms a truly beautiful circular bracelet, so honestly, the only thing I found a bit of a shame was that slight discomfort at the points of contact.

　And there’s one more thing I need to mention. While there is unit-to-unit variation, the “buckle” on the bracelet I purchased tends to “get stuck” a little bit when I try to fasten it.

　This might be due to the manufacturing accuracy of the hinge, but if the pressure point where you apply force to close the buckle is off, it sometimes doesn’t snap into place properly. Since the buckle has exceptionally stylish engine-turned grooves, I’d like to see them add a few more steps to the manufacturing process, if possible, to achieve even better finishing (once it’s closed, there’s no issue with rigidity).

　So, even though I’ve been a bit harsh on the bracelet… if you were to ask, “Does that mean I shouldn’t buy the bracelet set??” my answer would be a “100% no.”It would be a waste to get a Wolbrook and then skip the bracelet, which really adds to the vibe. In fact, I think a Wolbrook isn’t complete without the bracelet.

　Since a bracelet can make such a stylish statement, let’s just swallow any slight sense of discomfort. At the very least, I think it’s unfair to expect perfection from a bracelet that costs less than 20,000 yen when sold separately.

Finally… I can’t believe you can buy such a wonderful tool watch for “100,000 yen”!!

　Around 100,000 yen… This price range features many watches that have achieved the ultimate balance between quality and cost. It’s a price range where you can enjoy watches that embody the “culmination of wisdom,” so to speak—watches in which each manufacturer has infused its own unique philosophy on cost… That’s what this “around 100,000 yen” range is all about.

　Please keep that in mind as you take a look at this “Wolbrook” model. At this price point, it’s perfectly acceptable not to include features like 150-meter water resistance or a sapphire crystal. Add to that its unique shock-absorption structure. I believe the two models we’ve discussed here are “great-value watches” that offer even better value than their appearance suggests.

　In reality, for 100,000 yen, you can find plenty of other great watches. So, once you’ve discovered “Wolbrook,” it’s only natural to find yourself drawn to other watches in that price range as well. But if you simply can’t take your eyes off Wolbrook, you’ll just have to find a way to convince yourself it’s the right choice.

　In my case, I decided to buy it based on the following three points. First was the “brand’s history.” I was captivated by the nobility of a brand that staked its very existence on tool watches, even if it ultimately faded from the scene. Second was the fact that it’s “powered by the Miyota Cal. 8315.” For me, the fact that this is my first watch with this movement—even if it’s a mass-produced model—is a key factor.

　The third point is “the excellence of the design.” I appreciated its “subtly distinctive design,” which I believe would stand out even if mixed in with my collection of over 100 pieces.

　So, using “I-Want-a-Wristwatch Syndrome” as an excuse, I’ve once again added another interesting watch to my collection. I can’t seem to find a cure or treatment for it, but if you asked me if I want to get rid of it right away, I feel like it’s fine to just “monitor the situation” for the time being (；´∀｀)

Wolbrook Pan4Timer Automatic & Skindiver Automatic Watch – Two-Tone Blue Specifications
movement	Automatic Citizen Miyota Cal. 8315
power reserve	About 60 hours
Features	Hacking Seconds (Second Hand Stop) / Quick Date Setting (Pan4Timer)
crystal	Sapphire crystal (scratch-resistant, anti-reflective coating on the inner surface)
lume	Swiss-made Super-LumiNova
Case Size	40 mm
Case Material	316L Stainless Steel
Strap / Bracelet	Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather Strap & 316L Rice Bead Bracelet (Pan4Timer) Tropic Rubber Strap & 3-Link Bracelet (Skindiver Automatic)
water resistance	Water-resistant to 150 meters (15 ATM)
Structure	HexapleX® Architecture
Structural Characteristics	Enhanced Shock Resistance and Water Resistance
crown	screw-down crown
bezel	unidirectional rotating bezel
Assembly	Made in France
accuracy	Hand-assembled / Adjusted for a daily rate of ±15 seconds

Just a side note: “The box is so tiny” is the best!! (lol)

　There’s no doubt that a big, high-end “box” is something of value to watch buyers. I think it’s fine if I have just two or three of them. But if that number grows to 10 or 20… honestly, I’m at a loss as to where to put them all (；´Д｀)

　In that regard, the “Wolbrook box (case)” is fantastic. It was a truly simple, small box—almost as if I’d bought a pencil case at Muji. Personally, this is one of the things I appreciate most about it. I think this is great news for everyone who, like me, is struggling with the “wristwatch box and storage space problem” (lol).